New York City bagel aficionados may feel a bit confused. A sign for the re-named “New Absolute Bagels” now hangs outside 2788 Broadway, located between West 107th and 108th streets. That name should invoke sweet nostalgia over one of NYC’s iconic, original Absolute Bagel locations, which shuttered last December for multiple critical health code violations. The new and improved shop has nothing to do with the Thongkrieng family, who first ran that popular spot for many decades.
The original Absolute Bagel was a radical innovation. We opened the first Absolute in 1992. It was initially begun by the Thongkrieng family, who got their experience running Ess-a-Bagel. After the last inspection, the city Department of Health docked the shop 67 points for serious violations. These violations included rampant evidence of rats and live roaches, forcing the shop’s temporary closure. This called for a surprise closure that came too soon, leaving their many regulars heartbroken at the loss of their beloved bagel shop.
Rafe Evans, the commercial real estate broker representing the storefront, told Curbed he was caught off-guard by the name on the new lease. He said it was important that there be no direct ties between the new owners and the Thongkrieng family. And they are going to do it all over again from scratch. They need everything. Floors, walls, ceilings, the works,” Evans said, emphasizing the deep renovations needed to turn the former eatery into their new home.
Evans asked about getting recipes from Sam, the previous proprietor of Absolute Bagel, to which Sam reportedly responded, “Why would I do that? Sam had no desire to sell. We approached Sam, the previous owner, to find out if he would sell his recipes. His answer sprung from that bravado, ‘Nobody can’t make a bagel’.
The sign outside the storefront simply reads, “Reopen: New Absolute Bagel,” which may mislead some into thinking it is a revival of the original establishment. The new shop doesn’t automatically get the legacy or reputation of its predecessor. Any value customers hoping for a commercial return to yesteryear should temper their expectations. The new owners are building a new brand that translates their personal vision.
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