Milan Fashion Week witnessed a bold display of creativity and controversy as Italian fashion house Diesel unveiled its latest collection. The show, featuring models in provocative “bumster” jeans, has ignited discussions across the fashion community. Creative director Glenn Martens aims to bring back the daring style popularized by Alexander McQueen, which first made waves in the '90s.
The collection showcased “elevated yet disrupted, corrupted, slashed, destroyed, and impossibly low-cut” jeans that left little to the imagination. Models strutted down the runway in peek-a-boo jeans paired with backless tops. These garments revealed a hint of plumber’s crack, eliciting mixed reactions from audiences and style gurus alike.
In addition to the eye-catching denim, models sported striking all-white or black contact lenses, some featuring spray-painted smiles. This surreal aesthetic was complemented by a backdrop of graffitied tapestries, created with nearly two miles of fabric spray-painted by 7,000 artists. The entire presentation echoed the rebellious spirit of the '90s grunge and Y2K ambiance.
The bumster jeans were originally popularized by Alexander McQueen in his iconic 1993 "Taxi Driver" collection. Since then, they have re-emerged as a trend among various designers, including Diesel and Ludovic De Saint Sernin. Celebrities such as Katy Perry and Julia Fox have been spotted donning this revealing style on the red carpet.
Despite their apparent resurgence, the bumster jeans have faced substantial backlash. Many critics have voiced their disapproval on social media. One commentator expressed, “PLEASE do not make plumber cracks a trend,” while another remarked, “Low rise jeans: yes. plumber cracks: no.” This sentiment highlights a growing concern about what is deemed acceptable in contemporary fashion.
Sarah Faisal, founder of Baraboux, described the look as a deliberate attempt at undressing, further pushing the boundaries of fashion. The revealing nature of the bumster jeans has led some to label them as “NSFW” (not safe for work), sparking debates about appropriateness in public spaces.
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